In the first part of this series, I covered some basic techniques to steady your lens, and in the second part we reviewed basic in-camera settings and techniques. Now that you’re technical approach is improving, the third and final post in this series will help you to start getting closer to the action.
Wildlife, and particularly moving subjects, will really test the capabilities of your photographic equipment, your stalking abilities to get you closer, your skills as a photographer and your patience.
In the first part of this series, I covered some basic techniques to overcome the shake and vibration associated with a longer focal length. Below are some basic in-camera settings and techniques, which are applicable regardless of the gear you are using. I shoot Nikon, so nomenclature may be different between manufacturers, but the following will work for Canon, Sony, etc. and assumes you’re using a DSLR, since a point & shoot will really struggle.
Wild animals tend to not like people; they are afraid of us… I guess mostly because we have a habit of eating them. As a result, photographers are going to need longer lenses, to try and fill the frame. 300mm is just a starting point, for those looking to get into bird photography, and no matter how much you’ve got, more would always be better.
The following tips will help you keep the long lens steady. Most apply for other uses of long lenses, too (field sports come to mind). Continue reading
I have not had much time for wildlife photography, lately… Either I have been spending time with my family, or my photography efforts have been for others (portraits, events, etc.).
With the fall migration upon us, now is the time for bird photography outings. I tend to – pardon the intended pun – focus on the larger bird species (eagles, hawks, etc.) as I find them more fun and compelling subjects, which also require a little less lens given their relative size compared to the warblers, finches and other small migrants…
Watch for a series of posts over the coming weeks, with tips to help get better frame-filling shots of birds and wildlife.